ROLEX SUBMARINER

Submariner | James Bond's Rolex Submariner | Military Submariner

Current Rolex Submariner Models:

Classic Rolex Submariner Models:

Vintage Rolex Submariner Models:

Rolex Submariner

Rolex Submariner 116610LN

Ever since the Rolex Submariner came into being it has been recognized as a classic and luxury watch and indeed one of the major models of the Rolex brand that is widely in use even today. Originally, the Rolex Submariner was a part of the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Professional line, which is the greatest category of selections of watches in the Rolex family.

Designed for diving and known for their resistance to water, the first Submariner was introduced to the public in 1954 at the Swiss Watch Fair. While Rolex officially launched the Submariner (model 6204) at the Fair in 1954, the appearance of the first Rolex diving watch is believed to have been in the previous year, as model 6200. This is the same year that the TV adaptation of Ian Fleming’s book Casino Royale was first broadcast on CBS, starring Barry Nelson.

Rolex Submariner 6204

This movie depicted a much different Bond than we are accustomed to seeing today, as did the early Submariners. Both were a bit rough around the edges, but over the years that followed, they were refined into a very sexy symbol of thrill-seeking adventure with an affluent sophisticated flair.

This was, indeed, an exciting time for exploration. With the new sport of skin diving on the horizon, it opened the door to a world full of adventure. Earlier that year, Hillary and Tenzing conquered Mt. Everest, followed by the Piccard’s historic voyage into the abyss with their famed bathyscaphe Trieste. These pioneers were braving new frontiers and Rolex was determined to supply the watch, no matter what the situation. The Explorer (models 6098 & 6150) was released in 1953, as was the Turn-O-Graph (model 6202). Then, along with the Submariner, the Milgauss (model 6541) and the GMT-Master (model 6542) were officially debuted in 1954. Rolex’s catalog was then lined with an impressive collection of new “Professional Series” watches.

As time went on, the watch became an important part of expeditions both at sea (such as the Moana expedition) and overland in the Antarctic (where it withstood temperatures of minus 45 degrees Celsius). In the Moana sea expedition it withstood in excess of a thousand dives. Thor Heyerdal, the Norwegian anthropologist, wore a Rolex Submariner in his 1970 Ra II sea expedition.

The Submariner model that went into production in 1953 and was showcased at the Basel watch fair in 1954 was assigned a case reference number of either 6204 or 6205. It is unclear which model came first and, in any event, the two watches are nearly identical. However neither had the distinctive "cathedral" or "Mercedes" hands now so strongly associated with the Submariner line. Rather, both of these early submariners had straight "pencil" style hands. Few, if any of the 6205 watches bore the name "Submariner" on the dial which is a major distinction between modern Submariners. Some 6204 models have the Submariner logo printed below the center pinion, while others have the logo blacked out. It is believed that there were unexpected trademark issues connected with the name "Submariner" at the time the 6204 and 6205 were released which account for the inconsistent use of the Submariner mark on these early Submariners. Trademark irregularities notwithstanding, both the 6204 and 6205 are designated Submariner models in the Rolex product literature of the time.

In 1954, Rolex also produced a small number of ref. 6200 Submariners. This was the first Submariner (although not the first Rolex) to make use of the Mercedes hand set (a feature of all subsequent Submariners). The 6200 also featured an oversized winding crown (compared with the 6204 and 6205 models). Within a few years, Rolex revised its Submariner line, producing the 6536 (small crown) and 6538 (oversized crown) models. These watches had "improved" movements (the cal. 1030), including a chronometer version in some 6536 models (designated 6536/1), the now-familiar Mercedes hands, along with the Submariner logo and depth rating printed on the dial.

It is believed that Sean Connery wore the 6538 in Dr. No. Many collectors therefore regard it as the only true James Bond Submariner, with the possible exception of the 6200, on account of the presence of the larger “Brevet” winding crown and non-crown guard case. Others believe that all Submariners “without crown guards” deserved the same distinction (i.e., to also include the 5508, 5510, 6204, 6205, and 6536 series). Crown guards were not introduced to the line until 1959, when they were featured on a brand new model, the 5512.

Rolex Submariner 6538

With that being said, there is the matter of the 5513 (released in 1962), which Roger Moore donned in Live And Let Die. While it doesn’t fit the aforementioned description, it’s probably the most memorable Submariner to appear in the Bond films. This Q Branch gadget featured an electromagnet powerful enough to divert the path of a bullet, as well as a spinning bezel which acted as a buzz saw and enabled Bond to cut free his ropes, thus saving himself and the heroin Solitaire (played by Jane Seymour), from certain death in a pool of man eating sharks.

By the early 1960s, these models gave way to the 5508 (small crown) and 5510 (large crown) models. All of these early Submariners used either gilt (6200, 6204, 6205) or gilt/silver gilt (6536, 6538) printing on glossy black dials. Radium paint was used for the luminous indices. The next wave of Submariners, the 5512 (chronometer version) and 5513 (non-chronometer) marked a significant change in the appearance of the popular Rolex design. "Shoulders" were added to the crown side of the case to provide protection for the winding/setting mechanism. In early watches—perhaps until 1964 or so—these shoulders were pyramid-shaped, ending in points. Later watches were manufactured with rounded shoulders. In addition, the 5512 and 5513 were both fitted with the oversized crown, which became a standard feature of the Submariner line thereafter. Sometime in the early 1960s, Rolex discontinued the use of radium paint for the luminous indices, switching to the safer Tritium-infused paint. In 1965-1966, Rolex discontinued use of gilt/silver gilt dials on the Submariner watches, switching to white printing. A final important change came with the introduction of the 1680 model in the late 1960s.

On a side note, in the 1960s, in the years following the Trieste's “deepest dive”, the Rolex Submariner was the watch of choice for the US Naval School for Deep Sea Divers and for the US Navy's SEA-LAB program which also provided robust developmental testing.

The 1680 was the first Submariner to be equipped with a date complication, marking the completion of the transition of the Submariner line from specialist tool watch to mass market fashion accessory. While many professional and military divers used—and continue to use—Submariners in the most demanding underwater environments, by the late '60s the watch had undeniably become a mass market product as well. Throughout the next 40 years, the Submariner was updated with improved water resistance, new movements, and numerous small cosmetic changes. Nonetheless, the modern Submariner of today bears a very strong resemblance to the 5512 or 5513 of the early 1960s, and is an unmistakable descendant of the very first Submariners introduced more than fifty years ago.

Rolex Submariner 1680

The recently discontinued Rolex Submariner 16610 model first came to be in 1989, and its form shall be displayed in the update key and subtle movement and chassis improvements, such as the older single-bridge-based Caliber 3035 spring bearings replaced by the double bridge form of the new Caliber 3135, strap and case bonding material and the telescopic parts of the evolution of iron-chip install gaskets, etc. In 2003, Rolex celebrated the Submariner's 50th anniversary by launching the Rolex Submariner anniversary edition (16610 LV) and its distinguishing features were the green bezel and Maxi dial.

Rolex Submariner 16610LV

Classic Rolex Submariner Models
14060M COSC
116610
16610LV
16613
16618

Submariner model information and characteristics
* Is waterproof to a maximum depth of 300 metres/1000 ft.

* Has the Triplock system, featuring a triple gasket system, is identified by three dots on the crown which screws down tightly onto the case tube and against the Oyster case providing another layer of protection.

* Has a case made from a solid block of 904L stainless steel or gold. 904L steel is a corrosion-resistant stainless steel alloy. Rolex makes its gold in its own foundry where it can create new alloys and control the quality of the gold.

* As what many professional divers consider to be a "true" diving watch, among many, the Submariner utilizes a unidirectional bezel that enables the diver to memorize and follow immersion time. Since the bezel only rotates counterclockwise, the dive time can only become "shorter" in case of accidental bezel movement, thus avoiding the danger of spending too much time underwater.

* Has the Perpetual rotor in the self-winding wristwatch mechanism which allows the watch to run continuously because every slight movement of the wrist winds the movement and the energy generated is stored in the mainspring which can allow the watch to continue to function with no movement for up to one and half days. Every movement is an officially certified Swiss chronometer by the COSC. At midnight the Rolex calendar mechanism advances to the next date in a single short rotation.

* As of summer of 2007 the 14060M non date version became a COSC certified Swiss chronometer.

* As of 2007, and more particularly, with the "Z" serial number series, there are no holograms on the casebacks.

* A new submariner, model 116613 (not to be confused with model 16613) based on the "supercase" used in the GMT II was presented at the 2008 Basel show. The first Submariner models offered are a yellow gold with blue face and bezel and a new white gold with blue face and bezel (model 116619). The stainless steel case model was presented at the 2010 Basel show. Its reference is model 116610.

* Recent models of the Submariner (late 2008) have a distinctive "ROLEX ROLEX ROLEX" and serial number engraved on the "inner bezel" also known as the "Rehaut" (French) or "Flange".

* The no-date Submariner is marginally thinner, and has a thinner bezel than its date-sporting counterpart. It is also much rarer than the date model Submariner because dealers typically order the nominally more expensive 'date' version.

* The 6200, 6538A, 6538 and the 5510 all had different movements. The 6200 had the A296, while the 6538A and thick cased 6538 had the 1030. The movement in the 5510 was the 1530 (although some military versions had the 1520 movement).
The 1530 and 1520 movement was the same movements used in the later 5513 Submariners of Lazenby and Moore fame. The 15XX series of movements are considered among the best Rolex ever made (or purchased), so the 5510 with the old style case coupled with the newer movement make it the most wearable of the Connery Bond Submariners, however it was made in very low numbers and is considered quite rare.

Did you know?

The Rolex Sea-Dweller introduced in 1971, is a heavier-duty version of the Submariner in steel, with a thicker case and crystal. The Sea-Dweller incorporates a helium escape valve for use with helium-based breathing gas mixtures in saturation diving. The recently discontinued model (ref 16600) is guaranteed waterproof to 1220 m/4000 ft.

Reference:
Wikipedia
Qualitytyme
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